AMRITSAR
I get off the bus in the middle of a busy street. Luckily a lady puts me on a rickshaw, she bargains the price for me and sends me to the train station. From there, a free shuttle takes me directly to the Golden Temple. The CJ Hotel, named on the LP, destination for medium-budget tourists, is frankly expensive, 1500 rupees for a room. Fortunately, around there, there are many others. I choose the Mercury Inn. 900 rupees for a clean room with walls painted with bright green color, whisper quiet air conditioning, and superb views even on the Golden Temple. Theoretically, in the Golden Temple there are dormitories, and other types of rooms, but I do not want to scrounge a bed, since I can afford to pay. Yet, in Vashisht I met people who had eaten even for free at the table of pilgrims.
A particular place, Amritsar, the holy city of the Sikhs. A flood of human beings that goes around a dome, prays, performs ablution in a sacred bath, recites orisons, while speakers around incessantly spread the readings of the sacred books, singing sweet litanies…. You do not pay entrance, the only formalities are those related to the placing of the shoes in the lockers, and the obligation to cover the head, for respect reason, both for women and men. I go there at least 3 or 4 times
The most charming moments are at sunset, because of colours reflected on the golden domes, and in the evening, at about 22.15 when there is a procession for the holy book return to the main altar. Anyone is allowed, the heat and the crowds make it a bit claustrophobic, but very impressive. For the second time, I sense the mystical and religious aspect of India.
Completely different feelings, instead, gives me the changing of the guard ceremony at the border with Pakistan. A complete waste of time, not to mention the scorching heat. Like in a cheering stadium during a soccer game, an exaltation of militaristic spirit that I do not agree absolutely. In any case, the cost is 70 rupees on a shared taxi.
The balcony of my hotel, as already mentioned, overlooks the Golden Temple; at evening, the complex gardens are filled with pilgrims sleeping on the ground. I follow, from my window, all the preparatory rituals before they fall asleep.
The train from Amritsar to Agra leaves at 5.35 and arrives at 16.35. the cost is 750 rupees with a second-class sleeper. Obviously, it stops in Delhi. My first train ride in India, millions of times more comfortable than a bus. good hygiene conditions, bathrooms are not so bad, and sometimes they are better than ours